Thursday 2012-1129

We ate breakfast again at the Castle, this time just the five of us. Afterwards, as we began walking toward Havana Centro we had taxi issues, being in an embassy zone where cars were not allowed to stop. Finally when we found a good spot to hail a taxi, standing on a median at the Y between two busy streets. We had more difficulty than usual finding one with seat belts in the back. In Centro, we walked past El Capitolo and I courageously took a photo - didn't get arrested or thrown in jail. The building is quite impressive and similar in design to the Capital building in Washington, DC. I assumed this was not likely a punishable photo-offence (unless they were determined to harass me) since the capital building should be a point of Cuban pride and often photographed by tourists. Afterwards, I found out that it WAS the seat of government until 1959 when Fidel Castro's revolution took over - it now houses the Cuban Academy of Sciences. Sheesh!

We rode a taxi to Deposito del Arte de San Jose to shop for art, one of the few Cuban articles we are permitted to bring home to the USA with us. The other is literature. The Deposito is a huge building about a block wide and 2-3 blocks long right on the west side harbor waterfront. Outside the street entrance there are several ancient steam locomotives parked on tracks - Cuba is said to have built the first rail system in the Spanish empire in 1848 and it is a source of pride for them. On the opposite side exterior there is a balcony and tables at which to sit overlooking the harbor. Inside there are works of hundreds of artists - many representing themselves and some employing selling agents. The art ranges from classical to modern/abstract and many pieces are of very good quality. We spent several hours browsing and picking out interesting pieces. We foolishly managed to bring only a limited amount of cash and spent all we had on-hand, keeping only enough for lunch and a taxi back to the casa.

We had taxi issues again including an unexpected deviation from our goal, Cafe Laurent, to some unknown location in Havana Centro. Despite his assurance, the driver did not know where the Laurent was - after much roundabout driving he stopped the cab and got out to talk with someone on the sidewalk, then dropped us off saying that the restaurant was right there, pointing. We never found it - I think he was lying and unwilling to admit to us that he messed up. Our chosen substitute a couple blocks away was very nice, clean with linen tablecloths, good service and food, and interesting cuban art on display. But despite its apparent elegance, like most everywhere else we went in Havana, the restrooms have no toilet seats, no toilet paper, and no way to dry your hands after washing. Instead there is someone just outside the restroom door waiting to sell you a few sheets of toilet paper and offer you the use of a towel for a donation. Best advice - bring your own. Due to tension and expiring time, after several attempts and for the first and only time, Liz conceded defeat in her effort to find a rear seat belt taxi for the return trip today from Havana Centro.

The others relaxed and dined at the casa while Janet and I walked to Restaurante La Fontana for dinner. La Fontana was certainly one of the best and most ellegant restaurants we visited. The atmosphere was great as was the service and food, and although Americans would consider the prices surprisingly reasonable, it is of course way out of the average Cuban's reach. Inside we crossed a small bridge over a stream of water on the wallk to our table. There was a five-piece band setting up 20 feet away. We heard English spoken by diners at several tables - we would have stayed to chat and to listen to the band playing beautiful Cuban songs, but we had to eat a quick meal and depart because we had volunteered to babysit.




El Capitolo



Next day


Entrance to Deposito del Arte de San Jose


Early Cuban railorad locomotives


Harbor from behind the Deposito


Seemingly ubiquitous here, toilets (restaurants & public), have no seats and no toilet paper. There is usually a place to wash hands but with no towels.

Next day